A gold Gruyère d’Alpage AOP for Jacques Ruffieux

“To craft exceptional cheese from the mountain pastures, one must genuinely love the cows!”

Jacques Ruffieux, Alpine cheese producer and gold medallist at the 2024 Gruyère d'Alpage AOP awards ceremony

The lush rolling hills, winding paths, and enchanting curves of the valleys have been Jacques's playground for almost half a century. He knows the Tissineva mountain pasture, known as Tichneva in Gruyère dialect, like the back of his hand. Up in the Val-de-Charmey (FR), he continues to craft his Le Gruyère d'Alpage AOP using his father’s cherished recipe, carefully preserved in a slightly worn little book.

Adapting to change

Like many places, Val-de-Charmey is experiencing change: "There are more thorns and ticks than before, even at 1,600 metres. Luckily, the cows are resilient," notes Jacques Ruffieux. In response to global warming, he has adjusted his recipe: "A winemaker in Neuchâtel told me about the acidification of his wine, so I reduced the amount of culture per cheese," he explains. This adjustment has led to a higher quality cheese, benefiting from slower aging that has delighted the palates of inspectors over time. From 2019 to 2023, Jacques achieved a remarkable weighted average of 19.67, earning him the title of best producer of Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP for that period.

Happiness lies in the pastures

While the methods may have evolved, Jacques Ruffieux remains deeply rooted in traditions like transhumance. “It’s essential to climb up in May and travel back down in late September or early October, especially now that the mountain pasture season is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage. The image of these alpine pastures is vital for promoting Le Gruyère AOP, particularly in international markets,” he emphasises. For him, it’s a core belief: to craft exceptional cheese from the mountain pastures, one must genuinely love the cows. Before the descent begins, he takes the time to visit each one to express his gratitude. While some of Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP is exported, he takes particular delight in its local consumption, whether at the chalet or during sales organised by the students of Collège St-Michel, which owns the mountain pasture.

The team: small but strong!

At the chalet, the days are long, and the work is demanding and requires unwavering rigour. “To transform over 107,000 litres of milk into Le Gruyère d'Alpage AOP, I work with my partner Marilyne, an employee, and two or three chalet boys during the school holidays. Occasionally, I also get additional help, which is invaluable,” he explains. He often reminds his young employees that they must always strive to give their best to maximise their opportunities. With the spirit of the mountain pastures coursing through his veins, Jacques Ruffieux knows he has a solid support system: “I’m deeply grateful to my employees and my family for their unwavering support,” he affirms. He dedicates his medal to his late mother, Rose, who passed away in the spring for a “white paradise.”

In figures

• A mountain pasture situated between 1,450 and 1,900 metres above sea level
• 60 cows and 60 heifers
• 107,700 litres of milk
• 350 wheels weighing around 26 kg